Laser Capabilities

At 928 Laser, we use five different laser types so we can match the right tool to the material. That means cleaner marks, better detail, less scorching, and more reliable results—whether you need a crisp logo on stainless, deep engraving in wood, or a permanent mark on plastic.

12W UV Laser (Ultra-Fine Detail + Plastics + Coated Metals)

Best for: ultra-clean, high-detail marking with minimal heat impact. Great when you want sharp detail without melting, charring, or heavy discoloration.

Common jobs

• Fine logos, serial numbers, QR codes, small text

• Marking plastics cleanly (without the “melted” look)

• Coated / painted / anodized products where you want crisp contrast

Works great on

• Plastics: acrylic, ABS, PVC, polycarbonate (PC), PET, many consumer plastics

• Coated metals: anodized aluminum, powder coat, painted metals, Cerakote

• Glass & ceramics: strong surface marking and frosting effects

• Leather: very clean marking with less burn

Not ideal for

• Deep metal engraving (it’s more for marking than “carving” metal)

• Thick cutting (UV is for precision marking)

2W IR Laser (Clean Black Marks + Heat-Sensitive Materials)

Best for: sharp, controlled marking with low thermal damage—especially on materials that don’t love heat.

Common jobs

• High-contrast marking on certain plastics

• Clean marking on coated items and select metals

• Detailed branding on delicate surfaces

Works great on

• Plastics: many dark plastics, some light plastics, molded parts

• Coated surfaces: powder coat, paint, anodized coatings (depending on finish)

• Some metals: marking results vary by alloy/finish, but great for controlled, fine detail

Not ideal for

• Cutting

• Deep engraving on metal

22W Diode Laser (Wood + Leather + Coated Metals, Light Cutting)

Best for: wood and organic materials. Excellent for signs, patches, and rustic engraving.

Common jobs

• Wood signs, coasters, plaques, maps

• Leather patch engraving

• Painted/powder-coated marking (diode can remove coating for contrast)

Works great on

• Wood: pine, birch, maple, walnut, MDF, plywood (results vary by glue/resin)

• Leather: veg-tan and many leathers (we test for best settings)

• Paper/cardboard: engraving and light cutting

• Painted/powder-coated metals: stripping the coating for sharp contrast

Not ideal for

• Clear materials (clear acrylic, clear glass) without special coatings

• Bare shiny metals (diode isn’t the right tool for raw metal marking)

100W CO₂ Laser (Fast Cutting + Engraving: Acrylic, Wood, Leather)

Best for: production cutting and engraving on non-metals. This is our go-to for clean cuts and larger jobs.

Common jobs

• Acrylic signs, letters, and logos

• Wood products and large-format engraving

• Leather, rubber stamps, foam, and many plastics

Works great on

• Acrylic: cast acrylic engraves beautifully; extruded cuts very clean

• Wood: plywood, hardwoods, MDF (excellent depth and speed)

• Leather: strong engraving and cutting (depending on finish)

• Rubber: stamp making

• Glass: frosting/etch look

• Stone/Slate: surface engraving (great contrast)

Not ideal for

• Bare metal engraving (CO₂ generally won’t engrave raw metals without coatings)

• PVC / vinyl (we don’t run chlorine plastics—unsafe for equipment and people)

30W Fiber Laser (Metal Marking + Deep Engraving + Industrial Results)

Best for: permanent marks on metal and many industrial applications. If it’s metal, this is usually the best answer.

Common jobs

• Stainless “black mark” logos, serials, QR codes

• Deep engraving on metal (logos, stamps, plates)

• Firearm parts (where legal), tools, tumblers, hardware, tags

Works great on

• Metals: stainless steel, carbon steel, aluminum, brass, copper (marking varies by alloy/finish)

• Anodized aluminum: extremely crisp contrast

• Coated metals: removes coating cleanly for sharp marks

• Some plastics: certain fiber-markable plastics/additives (varies by product)

Not ideal for

• Clear acrylic, wood, glass (that’s CO₂/diode territory)

• Cutting thick metal (fiber can mark and engrave deeply; cutting metal is a different machine class)